There's no way around it: The ugliest dish I tried at Winter Park's new Bulla Gastrobar is also the most delicious. I must share.
Huevos Bulla
Blah, right? Nope. I want to eat this again tonight, and tomorrow night. It's called Huevos 'Bulla'. Huevos means "eggs" in Spanish, and Bulla is a happening place for Spanish tapas, thus the foreign language. The egg -- hmm -- fried? poached? It was fresh and bold and drippy and spectacular, meshing with a plateful of housemade potato chips, then topped with truffle oil, Serrano ham and potato foam. I guess it's a Spanish take on a classic American breakfast. Whatever the case, it works.
I tasted it with other food writers at a media dinner, and the gal on my right said, "I never would have ordered this, ever, based on the name and description. I am so glad I tried it." Me too. I had to politely share. Now I want to return and order my own.
The restaurant, the third tapas outlet of a Miami-based concept, served us several other creations in its private dining room. Here were my other favorites.
I can't find this on the menu but I'm sure it's there. It's thin bread, coated I believe with olive oil, then topped with garlicky crushed tomatoes. Nibbled with a glass of Rioja, this is a real treat.
Actually, this wasn't my favorite, but it has a robust flavor and everyone around me seemed to love it. It is pinto Moruno--cumin-marinated grilled pork with mojo verde (green sauce) and greek yogurt.
I'm kind of burnt out on paella in general because most are made so poorly. This one is an exception. The saffron rice is al dente yet creamy, somehow, with a smokey underlay. It's loaded with shellfish and topped with red sofrito and an herb sauce.
This entree is called Solomillo Iberia, and it's a Spanish-style pork tenderloin with sautéed apples, rosemary demi place and wild mushrooms.
One of my fond memories from a college summer in Salamanca, Spain, is venturing out to a tiny spot near the train station that served long donuts called churros with a thick chocolate dip. "CHUE-rroth ee choc-o-latte," we'd chant, using the Castilian pronunciation. Until now, I hadn't had a satisfying replica in the States. This one is excellent. The churros are cakey and coated with flavorful sugar, and they're served with two sauces--a thick chocolate and an equally luscious dulce de leche. I don't eat sweets. I polished off two of these. "Muy rica," as I would have said in Salamanca.
Give Bulla Gastrobar a try. It has indoor and outdoor seating plus a bar. During happy hour, 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. nightly, all drinks 50 percent off from seven days a week.